friday surf retreat

IMG_0055, originally uploaded by scotterickson.

i headed out early friday morning for some solitude and waves. the drive to westport is long and that sometimes is very frustrating. but when you want to get away and think and pray, the drive can be quite quieting to ones soul.

few have ever really seen this part of my life so i thought i'd take a picture this time. it's 44 degrees outside and i have just gotten out of the water. the waves were small but fun on this day. there was a long lull between swells and i spent that time praying and watching the pelicans ride the wind that hovers over the water.

my best ride that day
i was dropping into a wave and i thought it was going to break on me before i could get up and turn to the left... but i went for it anyway. as soon as i made my turn to the left, i could feel the wave crash just behind me which left me right in front of the curl. it was such a great feeling riding along, sensing the wave billowing over and over behind you, roaring the whole time.

it was a good day. i left with peace in my soul.